Creative Papercrafts : Products : Paper Tole : Tips

Items: 0 Total: $0.00

| Go to Techniques |

How difficult can the project be? The average basic kits will call for 5 prints. Any less than that, it is super easy with little detail. "The more prints - the more difficult"
Do protect your prints before you start. Did you know the oils for the silicone glue can seep through the paper to the front, even showing up some time after you have completed the picture? Many teachers recommend a coating of thin white glue, but it can ripple the paper. We prefer to spray with a matte finish clear acrylic sealer. Look for a good art spray recommended for sealing maps and charcoal drawings. Give the back at least 2 light coats of spray. We also recommend the front is sprayed. While the spray will not protect the paper from the ravages of UV - the fading resulting from the UV in the light rays - it does have other definite advantages. Shiny paper no longer shows finger marks. Small particles of silicone are easily removed by rubbing gently with a paper towel. We do not offer this product for sale on the Internet as shipping aerosol cans is not recommended.
Do have a sharp blade. If the paper edges "feather" as you cut, you need a new blade. It should cut like butter.
Learn to cut with a knife as scissors will limit your expertise. For example, you cannot cut out windows and leave the frame in tact unless you can use a knife.
White edges a problem for the right handed? Using an x-acto knife, always cut in a clockwise manner; angle your knife inwards so it cuts the paper on the bevel (minimizing the white paper edge because it cuts angled under the edge of the cut-out). Do not cut with the tip of your knife, lay your knife on the angle and cut on the side of the blade. Move the paper so you are always cutting on the right side of the image. Left handed? Cut in the reverse.
Silicone glue on your hands? Keep window cleaner handy, spray your hands and clean off with paper towels.
Do use embossing tools (metal stylus) to make small detail impressions. GENTLY rub using a shaping mat underneath your paper. If you have to fold your paper on a straight line - such as for boxes and buildings - use a ruler and impress a line with your embossing tool. Folding is now easy and accurate.
Hair not a great success? Use your silicone and round toothpicks. Dab a LITTLE silicone on your project with your finger. Detail the lines of the hair by following them with a toothpick through the silicone glue. Work in the direction of the hairlines. Remove excess silicone with the toothpick. Bouncy curls are absolutely the best, you just swirl the toothpick following the lines of the curl. A man's chin stubble can be achieved by just dabbing a little silicone on with your finger.
Need fine rope or wire effect? Use strong sewing thread, with silicone on your thumb and first finger, run the thread through those fingers so the thread is coated with a fine layer of silicone. This will make the thread firmer and also you will be able to dab it in place where you want it and it will stay.
Applying the Dimensional Glaze to a finished project? Apply straight out of the bottle tip - it is already open, just pull the cap straight off, do not twist. Let the liquid flow, only squeeze when it is not coming out as it flows a little too generously. Edge each section you are working on first by running a line of the liquid all around, close to the edge, not to the edge, then fill in and move on to the next section. Your project will require two applications for a nice even glaze. The first coat will look generous and shiny but will usually dissipate into the paper and require a second coat. Caution: If you apply your first glaze to the edge and it happens to seep over and under the paper, when it is completely dry the edges will curl forward and the seepage underneath can bleed through. Be careful with your edges on that first application.
Feathering. We always use the multi-purpose straight black handled scissors. Hold the paper in your left hand between the thumb and first finger; rest your scissors on your middle finger. This will give you stability of cutting. Move the paper, not the scissors. Cut with the paper right down into the scissor blades, not at the tips, even for the fine curls. To have your "feathering" curl, slant your scissors. You can make fine curly cuts right up to the long straight grass effect with these scissors.
Do protect your prints before you start. Did you know the oils for the silicone glue can seep through the paper to the front, even showing up some time after you have completed the picture? Many teachers recommend a coating of thin white glue, but it can ripple the paper. We prefer to spray with a matte finish clear acrylic sealer. Look for a good art spray recommended for sealing maps and charcoal drawings. Give the back at least 2 light coats of spray. We also recommend the front is sprayed. By spraying a protective coating on the front, shiny paper no longer shows finger marks and small particles of silicone are easily removed by rubbing gently with a paper towel. There are spray products on the market that indicate they will protect from harmful UV rays but there is only one spray we will recommend as effective for that purpose. We do not show these products on our web site because we cannot ship aerosol products out of Canada. If you have questions regarding same, or wish the products shipped to you within Canada, please contact us directly by phone or e-mail.